Col des Bœufs to Marla Hike – Mafate Cirque
Col des Bœufs to Marla Hike – Mafate Cirque
From Col des Bœufs to Marla, this GR R2 hike descends into the Mafate Cirque, a roadless territory inhabited since the 18th century, threading through tamarin forest and volcanic ramparts.
Col des Bœufs is the classic gateway between the Salazie Cirque and the Mafate Cirque on Réunion. Perched at around 1,990 m elevation, it marks the entrance to one of the world's last inhabited territories without a paved road. The descent to Marla, an isolated village within Mafate, ranks among the most accessible hikes for discovering this wild cirque.
Quick Facts
- Trailhead access: parking at Col des Bœufs, reachable from La Nouvelle (Salazie) via paved road then forest track.
- Entry: free — the trail is a public hiking path (GR R2).
- Recommended duration: 1.5 to 2 hours down from Col des Bœufs to Marla; allow the same for the return (uphill).
- Level: easy to moderate — around 400 m elevation loss, well-marked trail.
- Gear: hiking boots with grip essential, waterproof clothing (fog frequent at the pass).
- Accessibility: not wheelchair accessible.
What to Expect
From the pass, the panorama opens onto Mafate's soaring ramparts and volcanic peaks. The trail crosses a high-altitude tamarin forest before skirting ravines and cultivated fields. Marla, the village at journey's end, is home to a few dozen residents, a school, guesthouses, and a church. Life here moves to a rhythm set by helicopters and hikers.
History and Context
Mafate owes its isolation to geography: ringed by basalt cliffs, the cirque was never connected to the road network. Historically, it served as a refuge for maroon slaves fleeing coastal plantations in the 18th century. The name "Mafate" may derive from Mafate, a maroon leader who found sanctuary here before his capture. Col des Bœufs takes its name from the cattle once driven across it, carrying supplies to isolated inhabitants.
Highlights of the Journey
The View from the Pass
On clear days, the pass offers simultaneous views of Salazie on one side and Mafate's ramparts on the other. In the morning, before clouds ascend, light falls crisp and sharp on the peaks.
The High-Altitude Tamarin Forest
The trail winds through an endemic forest of tamarins (Acacia heterophylla), a species found only in Réunion's highlands. The atmosphere is often misty and hushed, a world apart from the coast.
Arrival at Marla
Marla ranks among Mafate's most accessible villages from the Salazie side. Its guesthouses allow overnight stays and explorations to other islets such as La Nouvelle or Roche-Plate.
Photography Tips
Start early: the pass clouds over quickly by late morning. Best views of Mafate's ramparts unfold just after the pass, before forest closes in. At Marla, terraced fields and the church offer quintessential frames of Mafatian life.
Location and Access
The trailhead sits at Col des Bœufs, reached from Salazie via the road to La Nouvelle. The parking area marks the start of the yellow-and-red blazed GR R2 path. No public transport serves the pass; a private car or taxi from Salazie is necessary. The trail is clearly marked throughout.
Nearby Attractions
- Salazie Cirque — the lush cirque from which the road to the pass departs, renowned for waterfalls and mist.
- Hell-Bourg — a village ranked among France's most beautiful, worth visiting before or after the hike.
- Mafate Cirque — the wild territory you traverse, roadless and inhabited by a few hundred Réunionnaise people.
- Îlet La Nouvelle — another Mafate village accessible from Col des Bœufs, launching point for many loop hikes.
Frequently asked questions
The southern dry season (May to November) offers ideal conditions: less rain, clearer visibility at the pass. During southern summer (December to April), cyclone risk and heavy rainfall can make the trail slippery and sometimes dangerous.
Yes, the round trip is doable in half a day for a fit hiker. Plan to leave early to enjoy morning clarity and sidestep afternoon cloud cover.
Hiking boots with gripper soles are strongly recommended. The trail can be muddy and slippery, especially after rain or through the forested section.
Guesthouses at Marla offer meals and lodging. On the trail itself, no facilities exist: bring sufficient water and snacks.
Yes. From Marla, marked trails connect to La Nouvelle, Roche-Plate, or Aurère. These extensions require a night in a Mafate guesthouse and solid fitness preparation.
No particular restrictions on the trail itself. At Marla, respect residents' privacy before photographing homes or daily activities.
Photos
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