
Col des Bœufs – La Nouvelle (Cirque de Mafate)
Col des Bœufs – La Nouvelle (Cirque de Mafate)
From Col des Bœufs (1,900 m), a marked trail descends into the Mafate cirque to the hamlet of La Nouvelle, a roadless settlement accessible only on foot or by helicopter.
Col des Bœufs is the land passage connecting the Salazie cirque to the Mafate cirque, at approximately 1,900 m elevation. From the La Nouvelle parking area, a marked trail descends toward the hamlet of the same name, one of Mafate's most isolated settlements. This hike is one of the rare on-foot entrances to this roadless cirque, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Quick reference
- Access: forest road from Grand-Ilet (Salazie) to Col des Bœufs parking — road occasionally closed by prefectural order due to weather or cyclone risk.
- Recommended duration: allow 1.5 to 2 hours for the descent to La Nouvelle (hamlet), and longer for the return climb.
- Level: hike accessible to a fit walker; the return uphill is demanding.
- Footwear: hiking boots mandatory — the trail can be muddy and slippery.
- Entrance: free.
- Accessibility: not wheelchair accessible.
What you'll see
From the col, the panorama opens onto the sheer cliffs of Mafate and the peaks that structure the cirque. The trail descends through dense vegetation — tree ferns, Tamarind trees, wild cinnamon — before reaching the hamlet of La Nouvelle. This roadless settlement is home to several dozen inhabitants, a school, a church, and guesthouses. Life here follows a rhythm dictated by helicopter resupply.
History and context
Mafate is the only cirque in Réunion without road access. Its hamlets were populated from the 18th century onward, notably by runaway slaves fleeing coastal plantations. The name "Mafate" is attributed to a maroon leader, Mafate, who took refuge there. Col des Bœufs takes its name from the oxen once used to transport goods between the two cirques.
Highlights of the visit
The panorama from the col
From the parking area, the view plunges into the Mafate cirque. On clear days, Piton Cabris, Piton Maïdo, and the cliff faces stand out sharply. This is often where hikers pause to photograph before descending.
The descent to La Nouvelle
The trail follows a steady elevation loss through humid mountain forest. Morning mists create a distinctive atmosphere. The endemic highland vegetation — tamarinds, wild cinnamon — is well-preserved on this section.
The hamlet of La Nouvelle
Arriving at La Nouvelle means entering a village cut off from road access. Residents cultivate terraced gardens, raise livestock. A few guesthouses allow overnight stays and onward travel to other Mafate hamlets.
Photography tips
Morning light is ideal from the col: clouds often blanket the cirque by late morning. Face northwest to frame the cliffs and peaks. On the descent, tree ferns offer interesting foregrounds. No known photography restrictions on this trail.
Location and access
Col des Bœufs is located on the Salazie commune, reachable from Grand-Ilet via forest road. From Saint-Denis, allow approximately 1.5 hours to the parking area. The road can close without notice — check conditions with the prefecture or ONF before departure. No public transport serves the col parking.
Nearby
- Salazie Cirque — the lush cirque of which the col marks the upper boundary, with its waterfalls and Creole villages.
- Grand-Ilet — the last village before the forest road, logistical starting point for the hike.
- Hell-Bourg — village classified among France's most beautiful, at the heart of Salazie cirque.
- Piton Maïdo — viewpoint over Mafate from the western slope, reachable by car from Saint-Paul.
Frequently asked questions
The austral dry season (May to November) offers the best conditions: less muddy trails, clearer views from the col. During the rainy season (December to April), the trail can be slippery and the forest road occasionally closed.
No, access to the Mafate cirque is free. However, the forest road leading to the col may be closed by prefectural order — check before departing.
Yes, it's feasible for a trained hiker. Allow sufficient time for the return climb, which takes longer than the descent. Start early in the morning to avoid clouds and heat.
Yes, the hamlet of La Nouvelle has mountain guesthouses allowing overnight stays and onward travel to other Mafate hamlets. Advance reservation is recommended.
Waterproof hiking boots, warm clothing for the col (wind can be strong at 1,900 m), sufficient water, windbreaker, and sun protection. The trail has no certified drinking water sources.
Yes. From La Nouvelle, marked trails connect to other hamlets such as Aurère or Roche-Plate. These extensions require at least one night in the cirque.
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